Cacio e Pepe e Corn Starch ⇥ nytimes.com

Alexander Nazaryan, New York Times:

A group of Italian physicists has dared to tinker with the traditional recipe for cacio e pepe, the challenging Roman dish consisting of pasta, pecorino cheese and black pepper. In a new study, the scientists claim to have “scientifically optimized” the recipe by adding an ingredient: cornstarch.

For some reason I cannot explain, the related paper was already in my history. It is an interesting read — no joke.

I am fascinated by the number of ways this simple recipe has been explored, from using two pans to incorporating cold water. I am not opposed to any of them on principle — I am not Italian, and anything that gets me closer to a perfectly smooth pasta-and-cheese snack is welcome — but there is something that feels a little perverse about an additional starch. Even though these science-backed techniques are tremendous, there is something very special about getting this emulsion just right without any real tricks.